For avid climbers and enthusiasts, choosing the right pair of climbing shoes can make all the difference in their performance and overall climbing experience.
One of the essential aspects to consider is the type of rubber used on the shoe’s sole.
The best climbing shoes rubber must be designed to provide exceptional grip and durability, allowing climbers to tackle challenging routes with confidence and ease.
With so many options available on the market, selecting the best rubber can be a daunting task.
This is why we have compiled a comprehensive guide to help you navigate the various types of climbing shoe rubber available this year.
This blog post highlights the top-rated climbing shoe rubber options and discusses their unique features and benefits.
We also delve into the factors to consider when selecting the best rubber for your particular climbing style and preferences.
Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned climber, this guide will equip you with the knowledge to make an informed decision when selecting your next pair of climbing shoes.
Soft Rubber vs. Stiff Rubber
When choosing a climbing shoe, one of the essential elements to look out for is the softness or stiffness of the rubber.
These two rubbers come with different pros and cons, which will eventually affect your climbing.
This is common knowledge which is why climbers wear different shoes for different climbing purposes.
You can determine a climbing shoe’s stiffness using the midsole’s thickness as well as the thickness of the rubber outsole.
Rigid Climbing Shoes
Also known as stiff climbing shoes, they have a rubber sole and midsole that are relatively thick, developing a durable platform to climb on.
Even though this climbing shoe will indeed reduce sensitivity, the durability of a rigid rubber is perfect for those small holds.
Undoubtedly, rigid climbing shoes do not perform well in bouldering. On the other hand, rigid rubber is thicker, and it will last longer.
Rigid climbing shoes are ideal for big-wall climbing and trad.
These climbers prefer these climbing shoes since they lessen the strain on your muscles, thus a more comfortable adventure.
If you’re a beginner, a rigid climbing shoe will come in handy in preparing your muscles and learning how to climb.
When climbing, there is plenty of strain on your toes, thus ensure you are well-experienced before using the softer ones.
Soft Climbing Shoes
These shoes are purposely constructed for the climber to have as little as possible between the rock and their foot.
For this reason, they are super sensitive, and they form into your foot’s shape after a few sessions.
They are more sticky socks that perform exemplary well in hooking and smearing.
Unlike their rigid counterparts, there is marginal support with these; therefore, your muscles and feet are required to work harder.
This makes them more appropriate for single-pitch climbing and bouldering.
Furthermore, if you’re just getting started on climbing, soft shoes will help you improve your footwork, and they will also make you more alert of your balance and positioning.
In summary, naturally, the rigidity of the rubber depends mainly on what you’re standing on.
For instance, if you’re on a steep boulder with small footholds, you will need a stiff climbing shoe.
On the other hand, if you’re climbing in a huge overhang, a soft climbing shoe is more appropriate since it will generate more friction.
A Comparison of the Different Types of Climbing Shoes Rubber
As you know, there are different rubber compounds used on different climbing shoes to achieve various purposes.
Here we will review all of the best climbing shoe rubbers and see what purpose they serve.
Let’s get started!
1) Vibram Rubber
This is an organization that has been making rubber compounds for climbing shoes for a long time.
Let’s see what they have to offer.
XS Grip
This compound is sticky and stiff.
Present on most Tenaya climbing shoes, most professional climbers have taken a shine to it.
The rubber’s tackiness and density make it flexible for all types of rocks, but it does not perform well in-toeing.
XS Grip2
Grip2 is one of the most common compounds in the market currently. Present on climbing shoes like Scarpa Drago and La Sportiva Solution, its flexibility is unmatched.
While it is not a soft rubber, it is tacky and offers decent performance in both overhang climbing and edging.
The softest La Sportiva and Scarpa climbing shoes typically use this rubber.
It is an all-around product that is suitable for sandstone smears as well as edges.
XS Edge
This is the best rubber compound for bouldering shoes.
It has been in the market long and is used on shoes such as La Sportiva Miura.
With the Miura’s reputation, this rubber has the ability to stand on anything, though it does not do very well on reduced-pressure smears.
It is currently used on Instinct VS from Scarpa, and this is the only bouldering shoe with this rubber.
That said, the XS Edge is more suitable for heavier climbers.
If you add this compound to your big wall climbing shoes, you will definitely be impressed with its performance.
XS Flash
The XS Flash is the most recent rubber from Vibram. We found it to be ideal for plastic walls and indoor climbing.
Besides, it is a non-marking compound that’s ultra-soft and offers plenty of friction.
2) Stealth Rubber
Here are the three rubber compounds used on Five Ten climbing shoes:
Stealth Mi6
This rubber compound is among the stickiest rubber on the market; thus, it is designed for smearing on glass.
Regrettably, it is soft enough for a light climber to burn through it swiftly.
Despite this, overhangs and smears make the absence of durability worth every coin.
The Stealth Mi6 is present on the Five Ten VXi and Anasazi Pro, and it is the most suitable for pocketed limestone, overhangs, and granite that can destroy it.
Stealth HF
This rubber compound has been doing its thing for more than a decade.
The new Five Ten Drago uses the Stealth HF rubber, which is a high-performance compound.
Additionally, it is the second stickiest rubber in the market.
It is suitable for bouldering, but competition climbers may find its inflexibility quite unsatisfying in slabs.
It is not durable, but if you climb “gently,” it can last for approximately six months.
Stealth C4
This is claimed to be Five Ten’s most flexible rubber.
Besides, they have incorporated it in most of their shoes.
It is the closest completion to Vibram XS Grip2.
It is sticky but not as durable.
On the other hand, it is present on most big-wall and bouldering shoes.
Heavier climbers might not appreciate that the edge doesn’t last a long time, especially if you have tiny feet.
However, the rubber’s stickiness makes up for the less-than-average durability.
3) Trax Rubber
This is a compound from Evolv, and there are three types.
Trax SAS
Trax SAS is arguably the best combination of durability and stickiness, considering it is more durable than XS Grip2 and C4.
For this reason, it is the ideal choice for a buyer on a budget.
However, it does not stick as properly as the XS Grip2, and if the climber is heavy and they are on a small edge, it will roll over.
This rubber is more suitable for interior use.
Trax XE
The XE rubber is not quite common, and it`s not among most climbers` preferred rubber compounds.
It is rigid though it easily turns glassy, even though it is sturdy.
Trax GT
Trax GT is relatively new among the Trax rubber assortment.
It is specifically designed for gym and plastic climbing.
Most Evolv climbing shoes do not yet feature this resilient, non-marking compound.
4) FriXion Rubber
Even though La Sportiva utilizes Vibram rubber, they do incorporate FriXion rubber on their cheaper climbing shoes.
This line features five compounds, but we’ll only review those used for climbing shoes.
5) FriXion Black
This is a rigid rubber utilized on cheaper shoes such as the Oxygym and Tarantulance.
It is an extra sticky compound that prioritizes performance over sturdiness.
This rubber typically does well in plastic climbing.
FriXion Eco
This compound performs as well as the Black, though it utilizes recycled ingredients and manufacturing off-cuts, which are typically disposed of.
It is present in La Sportiva Eco climbing shoes.
6) FriXion White
The FriXion white is a new compound that has some similarities with Trax GT.
It is developed from non-marking robust rubber, and it’s suitable for indoor climbing.
Considering it is new, no climbing shoes from La Sportiva have it.
Best Climbing Shoes Rubber FAQ
How does the thickness of rubber on climbing shoes affect performance?
The thickness of rubber on climbing shoes can affect performance in several ways.
Thicker rubber on the sole provides more durability and can withstand wear and tear better than thinner rubber.
Additionally, thicker rubber can provide more friction and grip on the rock surface, which can improve performance and allow for better foot placements.
However, thicker rubber can also add weight to the shoe, which may affect overall comfort and flexibility.
Ultimately, the optimal thickness of rubber will depend on the climber’s preferences and the type of climbing they are doing.
Are there any specific brands or models of climbing shoes that are known for having the best rubber?
Yes, there are several brands and models of climbing shoes that are known for having the best rubber.
Some of the most popular ones include La Sportiva Solution, Five Ten Stealth C4, Scarpa Vapor V, and Evolv Shaman.
These shoes are designed with high-quality rubber that provides excellent grip and precision on any type of rock surface.
However, the choice of climbing shoes ultimately depends on personal preference and the type of climbing you plan to do.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of different types of rubber used in climbing shoes?
Advantages and disadvantages of different types of rubber used in climbing shoes include:
- Vibram: Vibram is a popular rubber used in climbing shoes. It is durable and provides excellent friction, which makes it ideal for technical climbing. However, it is less flexible than other rubbers, which makes it less suitable for smearing.
- Stealth: Stealth rubber is known for its excellent grip and sensitivity, making it ideal for bouldering and sport climbing. However, it may wear out faster than other types of rubber.
- C4: C4 rubber is used by Five Ten and is known for its durability and stickiness. It is ideal for crack climbing and edging, but it is not as sensitive as other rubbers.
How often should climbers replace the rubber on their shoes for optimal performance?
Climbers should replace the rubber on their shoes every 6-12 months for optimal performance.
The frequency may vary depending on the frequency of use and the type of climbing.
To Summarize: What Is the Best Climbing Shoes Rubber This Year?
From the time climbing shoes were initially manufactured, it has been difficult for climbers to agree on which ones have the tackiest rubber.
Regrettably, comparing the different rubbers used in climbing shoes and finding an accurate answer to his matter is relatively complex.
This is due to surface, weight, and temperature variables that affect the rubber’s efficiency and ability.
Various rubber compounds are engineered for different surfaces and purposes.
Additionally, it depends on your level of experience.
Even though some rubbers are tackier, they will for sure be less resilient than their fewer adherent counterparts.
In 2007, Steven Won experimented to find out the tackiest rubber compound for climbing shoes.
It involved comparing the most common climbing rubber.
This technique included cutting a small piece of rubber from every rubber compound and putting them on an even-surface rock.
He placed a specific weight above them and increased the rock’s angle till the piece of rubber fell off.
He recorded this angle, and he repeated this on an even concrete hold.
However, after Steven Won’s experiment in 2007, we came to the conclusion these are the tackiest rubber compounds:
- Trax XT-5 from Evolv (Agro)
- FriXion rubber from La Sportiva
- Vibram XSV
- FX from Mad Rock
- Vibram XS
- Stealth HF from Five Ten
- Stealth C4
Even though this experiment was good enough then, the results are arguable.
Well, there you have it, the different types of climbing shoes’ rubber, and their features and purpose.
Hopefully, this guide has helped you know how to choose the most appropriate climbing shoe for your needs, depending on the type of rubber it has.
